I have a little secret. Under today's pattern mixed outfit (for Everybody, Everywear) lies a weapon strong enough to defeat the bloat of last night's chicken fried steak. Constructed of Lycra, Tencel and Spandex, this seamless instrument quietly does it's work. It fears little. Two slices of pizza? Salty snacks? Nachos scarfed at the rodeo? It scoffs at my vain attempts to stretch it's reserves. It boosts my confidence and inspires me to wear clothes I wouldn't dare consider without it.
I am speaking of shapewear.
The shapewear industry is worth $812.5 billion, according to WWD. Annual retail sales of shapewear — undergarments that control and smooth figure problems — grew 10.6 percent to $848.3 million from March 2009 to February 2010, and unit sales increased 3.8 percent during that period, according to The NPD Group research consultancy. A leading area of growth was plus sizes of XL to XXXL or larger, with sales gains of 14.8 percent last year.
Undergarment company Maidenform Brands Inc. this month reported a quarterly profit nearly doubled from last year which CEO Maurice Reznik put down to innovation - namely shapewear. Reznik said Maidenform has the largest market share in shapewear and is optimistic in the continued growth of the category. Women are now building shapewear wardrobes of basic and specialty pieces like control camis, waist cinchers and all-in-one body shapers, much in the same manner as they’ve made bras and tank tops wardrobe staples.
Body-shapers have long played a supporting role in fashion trends. The ancestor of shapewear, the corset, was "the most controversial garment in the history of fashion," says Valerie Steele, director and chief curator at the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, who wrote a book about the garment. The girdle grew popular in the early 20th century, eventually becoming a key component of Christian Dior's nipped-waist "New Look," unveiled in 1947.
The popularity of shapewear began declining when the miniskirt emerged in 1965, and the introduction of seamless pantyhose made obsolete the need for control briefs with garters. In 1998, an office copy-machine saleswoman named Sara Blakely cut the feet off a pair of sheer control-top pantyhose so she could wear cream-colored pants to a party. Two years later, she founded Spanx, and celebrities such as Gwyneth Paltrow, Jessica Alba, Oprah Winfrey and Queen Latifah started confessing their love of the shapers under their evening gowns. It picked up steam last year when Lady Gaga, Rihanna and Beyoncé were seen in provocative corsetry and other lingerie looks at the Grammys and the American Music Awards, as well as in magazines.
As reported in WWD, Guido Campello, vice president of marketing and innovation for Cosabella, an Italian-made intimates brand sold worldwide, said the company began receiving e-mails from retailers requesting shapewear following Grammys and the American Music Awards. “We didn’t expect we had a market for shapewear, especially in Italy,” he said. “But it’s because of the entertainment artists, such as Lady Gaga, Rihanna, Beyoncé, and even Eva Longoria in ‘Desperate Housewives,’ which has taken over ‘Sex and the City’ worldwide.”
The trend also has been propelled by shapewear and corsetry featured in popular TV shows like AMC’s “Mad Men, and HBO's miniseries "Mildred Pearce."
Underwear makers have discovered that men have an interest in shapewear as well. Since Spanx released a new line of “shapewear” or “profile-enhancing underwear” for men in February 2010, the “body compressing” tanks, crews and v-necks have become undeniable “retail hit,” as reported in the New York Times. Spanx isn’t the only company tapping into men’s growing insecurities about their midsections. According to the New York Times article, Equmen, Sculptees and RiptFusion have also released popular products for men, including a sort of “push-up bra” for men.
As I yanked on my Spanx this morning, I wondered why so many women (and men) are flocking to shapewear now. Is it because more women are struggling with obesity than ever before? Are fashion trends dictating the need for the smooth silhouettes shapewear creates?
I have a different theory. Vanity sizing, and a lack of sizing guidelines in the Unites States, have created confusion among female consumers regarding what clothing size they are. It is nearly impossible to accurately determine what size you need to wear to guarantee optimal fit. This chart proves with empirical evidence how women's dress sizes do not conform to any standard. Furthermore, even when women's clothing does rely on measurements to determine size (such as waist size for jeans) one brand's size 28 in one style might not fit equally as a 28 in a different style.
I suspect more women are turning to shapewear because they have no clue what size they wear, are purchasing clothes that do not fit properly, and require a more supportive foundation garment as a result.
Now I ask you: Do you wear shapewear? What caused you to purchase it? When did you start wearing it? Why do you think the industry is booming?
I am speaking of shapewear.
The shapewear industry is worth $812.5 billion, according to WWD. Annual retail sales of shapewear — undergarments that control and smooth figure problems — grew 10.6 percent to $848.3 million from March 2009 to February 2010, and unit sales increased 3.8 percent during that period, according to The NPD Group research consultancy. A leading area of growth was plus sizes of XL to XXXL or larger, with sales gains of 14.8 percent last year.
Undergarment company Maidenform Brands Inc. this month reported a quarterly profit nearly doubled from last year which CEO Maurice Reznik put down to innovation - namely shapewear. Reznik said Maidenform has the largest market share in shapewear and is optimistic in the continued growth of the category. Women are now building shapewear wardrobes of basic and specialty pieces like control camis, waist cinchers and all-in-one body shapers, much in the same manner as they’ve made bras and tank tops wardrobe staples.
Body-shapers have long played a supporting role in fashion trends. The ancestor of shapewear, the corset, was "the most controversial garment in the history of fashion," says Valerie Steele, director and chief curator at the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, who wrote a book about the garment. The girdle grew popular in the early 20th century, eventually becoming a key component of Christian Dior's nipped-waist "New Look," unveiled in 1947.
The popularity of shapewear began declining when the miniskirt emerged in 1965, and the introduction of seamless pantyhose made obsolete the need for control briefs with garters. In 1998, an office copy-machine saleswoman named Sara Blakely cut the feet off a pair of sheer control-top pantyhose so she could wear cream-colored pants to a party. Two years later, she founded Spanx, and celebrities such as Gwyneth Paltrow, Jessica Alba, Oprah Winfrey and Queen Latifah started confessing their love of the shapers under their evening gowns. It picked up steam last year when Lady Gaga, Rihanna and Beyoncé were seen in provocative corsetry and other lingerie looks at the Grammys and the American Music Awards, as well as in magazines.
As reported in WWD, Guido Campello, vice president of marketing and innovation for Cosabella, an Italian-made intimates brand sold worldwide, said the company began receiving e-mails from retailers requesting shapewear following Grammys and the American Music Awards. “We didn’t expect we had a market for shapewear, especially in Italy,” he said. “But it’s because of the entertainment artists, such as Lady Gaga, Rihanna, Beyoncé, and even Eva Longoria in ‘Desperate Housewives,’ which has taken over ‘Sex and the City’ worldwide.”
The trend also has been propelled by shapewear and corsetry featured in popular TV shows like AMC’s “Mad Men, and HBO's miniseries "Mildred Pearce."
Underwear makers have discovered that men have an interest in shapewear as well. Since Spanx released a new line of “shapewear” or “profile-enhancing underwear” for men in February 2010, the “body compressing” tanks, crews and v-necks have become undeniable “retail hit,” as reported in the New York Times. Spanx isn’t the only company tapping into men’s growing insecurities about their midsections. According to the New York Times article, Equmen, Sculptees and RiptFusion have also released popular products for men, including a sort of “push-up bra” for men.
As I yanked on my Spanx this morning, I wondered why so many women (and men) are flocking to shapewear now. Is it because more women are struggling with obesity than ever before? Are fashion trends dictating the need for the smooth silhouettes shapewear creates?
I have a different theory. Vanity sizing, and a lack of sizing guidelines in the Unites States, have created confusion among female consumers regarding what clothing size they are. It is nearly impossible to accurately determine what size you need to wear to guarantee optimal fit. This chart proves with empirical evidence how women's dress sizes do not conform to any standard. Furthermore, even when women's clothing does rely on measurements to determine size (such as waist size for jeans) one brand's size 28 in one style might not fit equally as a 28 in a different style.
I suspect more women are turning to shapewear because they have no clue what size they wear, are purchasing clothes that do not fit properly, and require a more supportive foundation garment as a result.
Now I ask you: Do you wear shapewear? What caused you to purchase it? When did you start wearing it? Why do you think the industry is booming?
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| Thrifted Ann Taylor blouse; thrifted Anthropologie skirt; Old Navy belt; Michael Kors platform espadrilles; vintage estate sale clutch; Forever 21 and Charming Charlie bracelets; Michael Kors rose gold watch |
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| Prints cited: Polka dot top + floral skirt |
