Thursday, May 26, 2011

Inspiration Dior

Reinterpreted fashion inspiration comes via evocative artworks and photographed by the legendary Patrick Demarchelier. These beautiful images are featured in the June 2011 issue of Vogue Russia.

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via absinthrill

Have a great weekend!

Eye spy//

Thrifting 101, part 18: Dating vintage clothes by era - the 1980's

Three weeks ago in Thrifting 101, I began exploring the history of fashion from the 1920's to the 1950's  in order to help you determine the age of a garment while thrifting. Two week ago, we focused on the 1960's; last week we delved into the 1970's. This week I'll follow the fashion timeline through the 1980's. Understanding more about the history of modern dressing is a great way to figure out when a garment was made.

Missed any previous parts of the series? Up to this point, Thrifting 101 has focused on tips for newbies and those dealing with the squick factor, advice regarding how to shop at a thrift store, thrifting for the clothing snob, recommendations for finding the best thrift and consignment stores, tips for determining what days are the best for thrifting, a post where I explained my love for thrifting, advice regarding thrift store etiquette, tips for cleaning vintage leather, a post of my favorite thrifting and vintage blogs, tips for identifying and cleaning thrifted jewelry, advice for storing vintage and thrifted garments, and advice for shopping for vintage online.

The 1980's

Design in the 1980's can be summed up in one word: exaggeration. Fashion, whether oversized or shrunken, crumpled or tailored, pastel or neon, short or long, sexy or mannish, bare or covered, sophisticated or innocent, was taken to excess. Along with their clothes, women's bodies became, by the end of a decade obsessed with fitness, changed - breasts became bigger and chests broader; arms and legs more muscular; and even faces became silicone-enlarged with plumped pouty full lips and sculpted cheekbones.

The baby-boom generation continued to have great influence over what was produced and purchased. As these men and women transformed themselves from hippies and rebels into yuppies, their tastes became more luxurious and their appetites for new experiences more intense. They found having money more acceptable and pleasurable; they started having families and demanded comfortable living environments; and as they aged they became more fascinated with nostalgia and kitsch.

In fashion, just about every style since the crinoline resurfaced. The decade saw nineteenth century bustles and crinolines; 1920's drop waist chemises and bias-cut silks; World War II large structured shoulders; and sheath dresses and day-glow miniskirts from the 1960's. Revivals from the 1970's included the renewed interest in ethnic fabrics and silhouettes. Despite all of these influences, a number of distinct styles encapsulate 1980's fashion.

Power dressing


As women became a more formidable force in the workplace, they focused their concern on diminishing decorative and alluring dressing and turned towards a more masculine uniform. Across the country, structured blazers with padded shoulders, man-tailored shirts, bow ties and pleated pants were adopted. Many outfits had Velcro on the inside of the shoulder where various sized pads could be attached. Power dressing rested largely on suits but also included straight, simple pencil skirts paired with silk bowed blouses in subdued prints. The look managed to be both masculine and feminine. Bold tailoring and men's fabrics were used in interesting combination. Donna Karen, designing directly for the women executive, was influential by introducing curvier shapes highlighted by wide belts and softer draping. Brighter and more contrasting colors, higher heels, and signature accessories including scarves, eye-catching jewelry, and even lavish underwear became the signature of the self-possessed woman.

Women's fashion and business shoes revisited the pointed toes and spiked heels that were popular in the 1950's and early 1960's. Some stores stocked canvas or satin covered fashion shoes in white and dyed them to the customer's preferred color. While the most popular shoes amongst young women were bright colored high heels, jellies - colorful, transparent plastic flats - become popular as well.

Glamour Dressing


The Dynasty cast
 

The television shows Dynasty and Dallas, watched by over 250 million viewers around the world in the 1980s, influenced fashion in mainstream America and perhaps most of the Western world. The show influenced women to wear glitzy jewelry as a way of flaunting wealth. Designers such as Bill Blass, Oscar de la Renta, Caroline Hererra, Bob Mackie, Scassi, and Victor Costa introduced more formal shapes featuring billowing skirts and trains, elaborate draping, and huge puffed sleeves. Satins, chiffon, and taffeta were utilized, often embellished with rhinestones, silver threads, and sequins. Shorter party dresses, with puffed bubble shirts supported by tulle and taffeta, were embraced by younger women to wear to proms and weddings.

Dancewear


Drew Barrymore in a short, tight Lycra dress



A new obsession with fitness brought the classic leotard back into the gym from the discos of the 1970's. Accompanied by matching tights, legwarmers, and elastic headbands, leotards of the early 1980s boasted bright stripes, polka dots, and even elastic belts. The popularity of aerobics and of dance-themed television shows and movies, such as Fame, and Staying Alive, created a dancewear fashion craze, and leotards, legwarmers, and headbands were soon being worn as street wear. The 1983 film Flashdance popularized ripped sweatshirts that exposed one bare shoulder. Celebrity dancewear inspirations of the era included Olivia Newton John's Physical video and Jane Fonda's line of aerobic videos. 

Betsey Johnson and Norma Kamali introduced spandex clothing into their collections and spawned a number of imitators. Miniskirts, bodycon dresses, leggings, stirrup pants, bicycle shorts, tank tops, and bodysuits were produced in dazzling colors and shimmering Lycras.  Cropped tops exposed toned, bare midriffs. Bright, contrasting colors were utilized in exaggerated prints.

Ornamental


1980's cabbage rose print dress

 



The solid earth-tones of the 1970's gave way to floral, nature-influenced prints and fabrics. Cabbage roses, paisleys, and even fruit and vegetable prints appeared on dresses. Polka dots, tartans, tweeds, and brocades were accented with decorative tassels, bows, and ribbons, as well as beads. The decade ensembles were accompanied hats and gloves, chosen for fun rather than function. Hair ornaments, scarves, shawls, patterned stockings, whimsical shoes became important. Clothes by Perry Ellis, Ralph Lauren, Geoffrey Bean, and Anne Klein were worn with complimentary shoes, pocketbooks, and costume jewelry.

The Madonna influence




In the 1980s, rising pop star Madonna became extremely influential to female fashions. She first emerged with what was dubbed her "street urchin" look, consisting of short skirts worn over leggings, necklaces, rubber bracelets, fishnet gloves, hair bows, long layered strings of fake pearls, bleached, untidy hair with dark roots, head bands, and lace ribbons. In her Like a Virgin phase, millions of young girls around the world emulated her lingerie worn as outerwear, huge crucifix jewelery, lace gloves, tulle skirts, and boy toy belts.

Gloves, sometimes lace and/or fingerless, were also popularized by Madonna, as well as fishnet stockings. Short, tight Lycra or leather miniskirts and tubular dresses were also worn, as were cropped, bolero-style jackets.

Punk fashion

A continuation of the 1970's punk movement, punk in the 80's was characterized by towering multi-colored mohawks, ripped skinny jeans, worn band tee-shirts, and jean or leather jackets, it was practiced by people who listened to punk music such as The Sex Pistols and later Guns N' Roses. Jean jackets (which became an identity of the group) were adorned by safety pins, buttons, and patches. Punk fashions eventually evolved into the hair metal and metal head movement.



Long, teased, permed and crimped hair; leather rocker jackets with cut-off denim jackets; tight worn-out jeans, black concert tee shirts (often ripped); black nail polish, spiked bracelets and dog-collars, and all-black outfits, often made of leather or velvet trimmed in lace or fishnet material became signatures of the metal movement.

Preppy



Conservative college students began to embrace a style that became knows as the prep look. Influenced by tailored, conservative prep-school uniforms, the style included long, camel-hair blazers, plaid miniskirts, pastel-colored polo shirts with turned-up "popped" collars (often made by Lacoste and Ralph Lauren), oxford shirts, bold striped rugby shirts, cuffed pleated khakis and loafers. Madras shorts in mixed plaids and longer, Bermuda-lengths were adopted by teenagers. Wide-wale corduroy pants, often in camel and tan, were worn by both men and women. Simple, subtle jewelry also dominated the look, in the form of thin gold chains, pearl stud earrings, and gold hoops.

Wednesday, May 25, 2011

White Mischief

Beautifully styled and photographed editorial in the May issue of Harper’s Bazaar UK. It captures light and shadow with the contrasting textures of rough stone and transparent lace in an alluring way.

photographed by Horst Diekgerdes and styled by Cathy Kasterine.

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via noir facade

My "Oprah" list, or that time that I allowed myself to be diva-esque

Yesterday I luxuriated in a quiet day of doing as little as humanely possible. I got a pedicure, grabbed some take-out pad thai from Pei Wei, ran to the supermarket for some groceries, and caught up on blogs. While traipsing through the internet, I uncovered a completely insane morsel from Kitty Kelly's 201o unauthorized biography of Oprah Winfrey. Allow me to share an excerpt:

About five years ago, Oprah's office contacted Georgetown's L'Enfant Gallery, because she owned works by portraitist John Kirthian Court and wanted to see more. Gallery owner Peter Colasante bought three paintings ($60,000-$80,000 each) and had them shipped from Portugal to his shop for Oprah's consideration. He received strict instructions for her short visit, along with a partial schedule: "2:17 p.m.: Oprah's limousine arrives at L'Enfant Gallery, 2:20 p.m.: Oprah walks into gallery...."

On the appointed day and time, two limos pulled up and Oprah went into Deborah Gore Dean's shop across Wisconsin Avenue. After waiting 30 minutes, Colasante walked over and found his famous client berating Dean. He told Oprah and her entourage that he had other appointments scheduled and she needed to honor her timetable.

"Oprah does not walk," she told him, referring to herself in the third person. "Who is this guy?" Then she started screaming at her staff, but finally agreed to cross the street and come through his front door.

"I just don't feel it," she told him. "The vibrations aren't right."

"You'll feel them once you see the paintings we've assembled for you," he said, pointing up the stairs where Court's art was hanging. "Oprah does not do stairs," she said.

Things went rapidly downhill from there: Colasante's partner hissed that maybe Oprah could use the exercise (unclear who heard), and she stormed out in a huff without buying anything.


Naturally, cackling sadistic that I am, I found this entire description HIGH-larious. Being rather diva-esque myself, I can think of few things that would make me happier than declaring to the world the things that I "do not do." So I figured I'd devote today's post to just that. In the third-person, of course.

*Elissa does no do bunnies and roses and Cathy comics and motivational inspirational crapola. It just ain't me. 

*Elissa doesn't do snakes. Except if they've been utilized in a lovely pair of pumps or a fetching clutch.
*Elissa does not do tents. Or hippies in tents.
*Elissa does not do leather shorts.
*Elissa doesn't do karaoke. Unless there's a considerable amount of booze involved. 


*Elissa does not do seafood of the "slimey" variety. Aphrodisi-MY ASS.
*Elissa does not do "hiding emotions." Note: This is more often a curse than a blessing. Heart-on-sleeve club for life.
*Elissa does not do workout gear in public. 
*Elissa does not do jokes about bodily functions. Because I'm a lady.
*Elissa does not do loud clubs with booming house music and strobe lights and $15 shots of Patron and girls prancing around in patent leather platforms and chain-metal handkerchief tops. Blech.
*Elissa doesn't do acid-wash. 
*Elissa doesn't do yardwork. 
*Elissa does not do interruptions during The Real Housewives of Whatever-City-They're-Filming-In. Consider yourself warned.
*Elissa does not do beets. Or blue cheese. Or lamb.
*Elissa does not do mountain climbing or mountain biking or basically any activity involving mountains.
 *Elissa does not do thongs. Ever.

I yam what I yam and that's all that I yam, y'all. I'm sure there's a ton more but I figure it's best for me to quit while ahead.

Are there things that you just "don't do?" Share 'em in the comments, or on your own blog (with a link back to mine, 'kay?)

Tuesday, May 24, 2011

On Trend: camel coats

A staple piece in a well-considered wardrobe is a camel coat. Preferably a Burberry. But in the real world, most of us mere mortals without a trust fund can only sigh as we gaze lovingly at these trenched wonders, caress their flawless silky lining and marvel at how perfectly they’re constructed. Or is it just me who does that?

Anyhow, here’s four street styled camel coats that hit the spot:

On Trend Camel Coat

1 citizen couture. 2 & 3 the streethearts. 4 all the pretty birds.

Outfit Post: Miranda Kerr wants you to know about her underwear

Allow me to share a cringe-inducing little tidbit from a recent People Magazine:

Miranda Kerr’s flawless post-baby body has everyone a little jealous. The Victoria’s Secret Angel, mom to son Flynn, 4 months, with husband Orlando Bloom, bounced right back after giving birth, even hitting the runway in a Paris fashion show.  The model mom says she’s most comfortable when she’s “just in knickers,” hanging around the house with Bloom and Flynn. “People have come to the house and I’m just in my knickers,” she reveals. “[But] I feel like it’s more appropriate to have knickers on than being completely naked.”

If pressed, I'll admit that I've engaged in a few innocent dalliances with US Weekly and People. I have read more than my fair share of exposes on the size and incubation of one's baby bump; the botched plastic surgery attempt of certain b-list celebrities; and pages and pages of baby daddy gossip. I've taken those insipid little tests regarding what my perfume says about my personality, which real housewife I would be in real life, and which celebrity hot spot I should visit during my next luxury vacation (hello, Phuket.) I've examined photos to determine which starlet wore those hideous peach jeans the best. Apparently, this is a thing right now. Peach-colored jeans WILL BE the next blogger red pants. Put your money on it. I've studied Candy Spelling's floorplan and wept white hot tears over the breakups of Courtney Cox and David Arquette/Christina Aguilera and Jordan Brattman/Renee Zellweger and Bradley Cooper. Actually, that last one I'm not so torn up about. Because it means Bradley is available, and I have a shot. Bradley, call me.

Anywhoo. I have been there, people. So I suppose that's why I wasn't so shocked by Miranda Kerr's "I'm so squeally suuuuppppeeeeerrrr comfy in my knickers, teehee" comment. For one thing, once your eyes have been photo-raped by Britney Spears' c-section scar (hello, panty-less crotch shot summer of 2006) you've seen it all. For the time being, let's ignore the snarky, insulting message that Miranda lost her baby weight faster than you did, you fat cow, can't you get your lazy ass off the couch? It's the prancing around the house in her undies that I'd like to focus on. Ms. Kerr is a Victoria's Secret supermodel. Either she's totes getting paid to gush about wearing her undies around the house, or she's a devoted fan of underwear in general. I have no doubt that Miranda spends hours lounging around her immaculately decorated ocean-front limestone mansion in nothing more than a pair of lacy boyshorts and a boned corset three sizes too small for her heaving bosom. She and Orlando probably spend hours having sex on top of the changing table and heating up bottles and preparing homemade baby food in less clothing than their entire baby's layette. I suppose her friends should be happy she wears clothes at all. Naked time for everyone! Weeee!

Personally, when I think of a comfortable choice in clothing to wear hanging around the house, I do not think of my underwear. Underwear is designed to stay under clothes - whether they be leggings and tee shirts or sweatshorts or whatever. I did not grow up in a naked house. My parents were firm believers in sheathing our naked bits in layers of clothing, preferably made from wool. And even now, as a fully grown adult, I don't prance around the house in my skivvies. I can only imagine the horror this behavior would cause - the assault of a splash of hot oil against my uncovered stomach while cooking dinner; the giggling of my children as I emptied the dishwasher; the outright staring of the UPS man when accepting a package; the snickers from friends while serving up cocktails in a push-up bra and satin tap pants. Nope, when I want to be comfortable around the house, I dress in ancient pairs of Old Navy sweats and college tees and maybe, if I'm feeling risque, a Gap body tank.

I'm truly curious to find out if you hang around the house in your underwear. Is this something you're comfortable with? Do you enjoy being naked at home? Why or why not? What do you throw on at the end of the day?

Vintage thrifted silk shirt; vintage Ann Taylor silk skirt; Old Navy belt; vintage thrifted Coach satchel; White Mountain clogs; thrifted (St. Vincent de Paul) Michael Korrs watch; Forever 21 rhinestone bracelet